Mitsubishi Engine >> TIMING BELT INSTALLATION ON 1990 2.0L DOHC ENGINES

Mitsubishi Engine >> TIMING BELT INSTALLATION ON 1990 2.0L DOHC ENGINES

Timing Belt Installation On
1990 Chrysler 2.2L DOHC Engines

The 1990 Chrysler 2.2L DOHC (double overhead camshaft) engine is manufactured jointly by Chrysler and Mitsubishi for service in Chrysler Laser, Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse automobiles. In this engine, both camshafts are driven by a single timing belt while one of the two balance (silent) shafts is driven by its own timed belt. The second balance shaft is driven indirectly by the
timing belt and oil pump.

It is necessary to install the belt that drives the balance shaft before installing the belt that drives the camshafts.

1) Rotate the crankshaft and balance shaft to align the timing marks and mount the belt (Figure 1).

2) Temporarily mount the tensioner pulley and rotate it toward the belt to remove any slack (Figure 2).

3) Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt in such a way that no additional tension is placed on the belt. The proper amount of tension permits a belt deflection of .200-.280 measured opposite the tensioner assembly (Figure 3). Repeat if proper tension is not achieved. Torque the bolt to 31-40 lbs.ft.

The following steps outline the recommended procedure for installing the actual timing belt. It should be noted that the timing belt tension once set during installation is maintained by engine oil pressure through an auto tensioner.

4) Inspect the auto tensioner for leaks and measure the protrusion of the tensioning rod. If leaks are noticed or the rod protrudes more than .470, replace the auto tensioner. Should the auto tensioner's rod be fully extended, but within specifications, it is necessary to push it back into the housing
before installation.

5) This can be accomplished by a soft jaw vice (Figure 4). If the plug at the bottom of the tensioner protrudes, protect it from direct contact with the vice by surrounding it with a thick plain washer.

6) Slowly push the rod back into the adjuster until the set hole (A in Figure 5) is aligned with the hole in the adjuster body (B). Insert a .055 wire into the set hole to fix the rod in position.

7) Mount the tensioner pulley onto the tensioner arm (Figure
6), locating the pin holes in the tensioner pulley shaft to the left of the center bolt. Do not remove the wire inserted in step 6.

8) This engine uses the same camshaft sprocket for either camshaft. Each sprocket is therefore fitted with two timing marks (Figure 7). When the sprocket is used to drive the exhaust valve camshaft, use the timing mark on the right with the dowel pin hole on top. For the intake valve camshaft use the timing mark on the left with the dowel pin hole on top. Turn both sprockets until the dowel pins are facing up and the timing marks are aligned with the cylinder head (Figure 8).

9) Align the crankshaft and oil pump sprocket timing marks (Figure 9). Since the oil pump sprocket also drives the second, lower balance shaft, be sure to verify the position of the balance shaft. This can be accomplished by removing a threaded plug on the side of the cylinder block and inserting a .310 shank Philips screwdriver into the hole (Figure 10). If the screwdriver can be inserted at least 2.400, the timing of the balance shaft is correct. Otherwise rotate the oil pump drive sprocket one revolution and retest. The screwdriver should remain in the block until the timing belt installation is complete.

10) Install the timing belt around all of the sprockets as indicated (Figure 11). Be sure to maintain the alignment of the timing marks. Gently raise the tensioner pulley so the belt does not sag and temporarily tighten the center bolt.

11) Remove the Philips screwdriver inserted into the block in step 9. Rotate the crankshaft 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. Then turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring #1 cylinder to top dead center (TDC). Insert special tool #MD998752, or equivalent, into a torque wrench capable of reading a range of 0 to 2.2 lbs.ft.
(Figure 12).

12) Holding the tensioner pulley with the special tool and torque wrench, tighten the center bolt to 14-20 lbs.ft. The torque wrench holding the tensioner pulley via the special tool should not exceed readings of 2.2 lbs.ft.

13) Remove a rubber plug from the right hand side of the timing cover and screw special tool #MD998738 into the left engine support bracket (Figure 13) until it makes contact with the tensioner arm. Screw the tool in further to apply pressure against the tensioner arm before removing the wire from the auto
tensioner. Remove the tool.

14) Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions in the clockwise direction and permit the engine to rest for approximately 15 minutes.

15) Measure the amount the tensioner rod is protruding, from of the auto tensioner body (Figure 14). The recommended protrusion is .150-180. If this is not achieved, repeat steps 11 through 15 and remeasure.

16) If it is not possible to measure the amount of tensioner rod protrusion directly, a substitute method is available. Reinstall the special tool #MD998738 until contact is made with the tensioner arm. It should take 2.5 to 3 additional turns of the special tool to fully push the tensioner rod back into the auto
tensioner. Again, if this specification is not met, repeat steps
11 through 15 and retest.


The AERA Technical Committee

---

Looking for replacement Mitsubishi engines? Visit our online Rebuilt Engines Store. Need to fix your Mitsubishi engine? Access here the comprehensive online repair guide for your Mitsubishi engine. Click Here to find a used Mitsubishi engine.